We were planning this trip for a long time and great that we could go during the winter break of 2010.
The entire trip was well planned by my wife, total of 9 days, 2500 km, staying in a different hotel each day, with a 2 year and 60+ year old as well. There was news that Rajasthan was reeling under severe cold wave and also the Gujjar agitation was not very encouraging.
The planned trip
Itinerary
We started out journey on 25’th Dec, flight was at 8:30. Due to fog the flights were delayed, the airport was more like Majestic bus stand, so many people and no place to sit. Finally we reached Delhi at 1:00 pm and our friend Gaurav greeted us and had arranged for the taxi for the whole trip. We had 11 bags in all for 4 adults and 1 kid. We were already delayed and got to know that drive from Delhi to Madawa is not 4.5 hours as planned but 7-8 hours via not so good roads. Decided to stop at Haldiram Hotel and our royal feasting had started. Everything is made of Shud Desi Ghee and we loved the food. Got out and got into a traffic jam, took us nearly two hours to get out of the jam, and our tight schedule was getting impacted.
The ride was bumpy as expected, north India is so different than south. Late night we reached Mandawa and it’s a small place and was wondering whether we made the right choice by booking a hotel there, and then like an oasis in the desert sprung up an exquisite Madawa Haveli. Made us forget the long drive and we were all excited. Enjoyed the puppet show, bought some puppets that were on sale, only to find out that we paid more than twice of what was selling outside, what the heck, we were the true gullible tourists.
The Haveli is great. For double the price you can stay in the special sheesh mahal room in the Haveli, it is very nice. We were given a nice room, plus one special room called the painting room.
Saw some more Havelis in the neighborhood, did lot of shopping, buying antique items from the Haveli, paintings, puppets etc. Most of the Havelis are abandoned, feels sorry to see them in that state, nothing much can be done I suppose.
Started to Bikaner, roads were better. First spot was the Camel Breeding Farm in the city outskirts. There are around 350 camels and of all ages, we saw some just born camels too. Mom and me rode on a Camel and mom screamed so much that the Camel got scared. We stayed at Harasar haveli, this was in the middle of the city. We were on the third floor and was treat to watch the sun set.
The restaurant is on the same floor and you get to see the city from there, plus some great food. In the morning, saw the Junagarh fort. We also visited the Lalgargh Palace, nothing much to see except a museum as most of the palace is converted to a Hotel. After that we spent a lot of time finding the Bikhaji restaurant, finally found it and as usual the food was great.
After that started our ride to Pokhran (yes the same place which became famous after the Nuclear Tests). You can get to see the landscape changing on the way. Arrived at Pokhran fort and we stayed there on the third floor. The room was fabulous. The place has a few rooms and not many visitors, enjoyed the serenity. Took a few pictures and went around the fort. The owner of the fort, Nagendra Singhji personally takes care of the place and he takes good care of his guests too. Food was great, and by now I was used to overeating.
The two doors that you see in the third floor were our rooms for one night :-)
After a nice breakfast consisting of Aloo Parathas, we started for Jaisalmer which was an hours drive from Pokhran. We toured Sona Fort, true to its name it seems to be made of Gold with the yellow Jaisalmer stones.
We were fascinated by some of the most intricately carved pillars of the Jain temples within this fort.
Started towards Sam, place known for its sand dunes. We were to stay for one night in desert camp. There are several of them there and we stayed at the Rajasthan Desert Camp. Place is done up nicely. Went on the camel for around 2 km on to the sand dunes. Arhan loved the ride.
There was folk dance to entertain the campers in the evening.
Next morning we continued exploring Jaisalmer. We visited Patwa Haveli. The intricate carvings all over the outerwalls is just stunning. After spending about couple of hours awing at the Jharokhas, pillars, walls of this haveli we headed towards Jodhpur - The blue city.
Visited Umaid bhawan palace in the night and then headed to Kisan Bhojanalaya for dinner. After finger licking delicious Haldi ki sabzi, Sarson ka saag, Gatte ki Sabzi, Chakki, and lassi, called it a day.
Morning started with visit to museum at Umaid Bhawan palace followed by Jaswant thada, cremation ground for Jodhpur rulers. The lake and garden surrounding the cenotaph along with some soul rendering music played on Ravanahatha adds to the tranquility of the place. We headed to Mehrangarh fort still privately owned by Raja Gaj Singh of Jodhpur, is one of the very well maintained and impressive forts that we visited. Shopping at the Museum shop in the fort completed our tour of Jodhpur.
Our next destination was Jaipur, that we reached late in the night and crashed at hotel Meghniwas. Following day was packed with tour of City palace, Hawa Mahal, Amber fort, Jal mahal followed with lots of shopping. We went back to Amber fort in the evening to watch the sound and light show, that was just perfect to conclude our old year 2010.
Started from Jaipur towards Fatehpur Sikri (UP). Knew that there was the Gujjars agitation, so started early, hoping that we will cross the blockade before they wake up, was not so lucky after all. Had to take a detour and our tight schedule was taking a beating. So how do we make up for the time, we skipped breakfast. We got to see some vast stretches of “Sarson ke kheth” (mustard fields), they look great with bright yellow flowers.
Reached Fatehpur Sikri, the experience is different, there were people everywhere.
Did a quick tour, got to see the Bhuland Darwaza, Dargah, skipped the fort, did not have time as we had to reach the Taj and spend some time there. So what do we do, skip lunch.
Started our journey towards Agra, it was a race against time, arranged for a guide to meet us at the entrance of the city. Rached Agra, again a different experience, how can a city which houses the Taj be so not clean! We were too anxious to see the Taj, the guide said that there will be lesser crowd at the east entrance, so we go there. Guess what, there is a 1 KM long queue to enter, and there is no way we will make it as it was late afternoon already (gates of the Taj close for visitors by 5 pm) and the queue never moved an inch. Luckily there was a separate queue for ladies and wifey, Sindhura and mom stood in that queue and they entered the place within 30 mts, and I was with Arhan in a stationary queue. Went and spoke to the security, luckily at that time Arhan started to cry loudly and the folks in the front of the queue agreed to accommodate me, and in I went. Could not wait to catch a glimpse of the Taj, we rushed in, and there it stood the magnificent Taj and a zillion people around it. Whole world was at the Taj, people everywhere, not an inch of space...phew..(Wonder who leaked the news of my visit)
Decided to act as a commoner, ignored the crowd and watched the changing colors of Taj at the sunset to conclude our near perfect trip.
Wanted to get away from all the hustle bustle of Agra and have dinner at a quiet place, and we get into a traffic jam enroute Delhi. Got to have dinner at 10:30 pm, what a way to start the year, no food the whole day...
Finally, we reached Delhi past 1 am. Our flight was at 6:30 am from T3 ( the nice new Delhi airport terminal), and we had to wake up by 4 am to make it. The iphone alarm bug dint help. Thanks to my wifey again, who happened to wake up at 4:45 am, we just made it! We were back in Bangalore by 9 am. Home sweet home..
To sum it up, the trip was great, relished every minute, people are very friendly, lots to see and shop, food is awesome, highways are well maintained (have to pay toll every now and then), missing Rajasthan. Have not covered the southern parts, planning a separate trip to cover Mount Abu, Dilwara, Udaipur.
The entire trip was well planned by my wife, total of 9 days, 2500 km, staying in a different hotel each day, with a 2 year and 60+ year old as well. There was news that Rajasthan was reeling under severe cold wave and also the Gujjar agitation was not very encouraging.
The planned trip
Itinerary
| Early morning (6 am - 8 am) | Morning | Afternoon | Early evening | Late evening | Night | |
| Sat (25th December 2010) | Delhi | Leave for Shekawati region (4.5 hrs) Mandawa | Mandawa | Mandawa | ||
| Sun (26th December 2010) | Mandawa | Mandawa | Leave for Bikaner (4 hrs) | Bikaner | Bikaner | |
| Mon (27th December 2010) | Bikaner | Bikaner | Bikaner-> Pokhran (3hrs) | Pokhran | Pokhran | |
| Tue (28th December 2010) | Pokhran-> Jaisalmer(2 hrs) | Jaisalmer | Sand dunes | Sand dunes | Jaisalmer (Desert camp) | |
| Wed (29th December 2010) | Jaisalmer | Jaisalmer | Jaisalmer->Jodhpur(3hrs) | Jodhpur | Jodhpur | |
| Thur (30th December 2010) | Jodhpur | Jodhpur | Jodhpur | Jodhpur-> Jaipur(3hrs) | Jaipur | |
| Fri (31st December 2010) | Jaipur | Jaipur | Jaipur | Jaipur | Amber fort | Jaipur (new years eve) |
| Sat (1st Jan 2011) | Jaipur-> Agra (4 hrs) | Fatehpur sikri | Taj mahal | Tajmahal | Delhi |
We started out journey on 25’th Dec, flight was at 8:30. Due to fog the flights were delayed, the airport was more like Majestic bus stand, so many people and no place to sit. Finally we reached Delhi at 1:00 pm and our friend Gaurav greeted us and had arranged for the taxi for the whole trip. We had 11 bags in all for 4 adults and 1 kid. We were already delayed and got to know that drive from Delhi to Madawa is not 4.5 hours as planned but 7-8 hours via not so good roads. Decided to stop at Haldiram Hotel and our royal feasting had started. Everything is made of Shud Desi Ghee and we loved the food. Got out and got into a traffic jam, took us nearly two hours to get out of the jam, and our tight schedule was getting impacted.
The ride was bumpy as expected, north India is so different than south. Late night we reached Mandawa and it’s a small place and was wondering whether we made the right choice by booking a hotel there, and then like an oasis in the desert sprung up an exquisite Madawa Haveli. Made us forget the long drive and we were all excited. Enjoyed the puppet show, bought some puppets that were on sale, only to find out that we paid more than twice of what was selling outside, what the heck, we were the true gullible tourists.
The Haveli is great. For double the price you can stay in the special sheesh mahal room in the Haveli, it is very nice. We were given a nice room, plus one special room called the painting room.
Saw some more Havelis in the neighborhood, did lot of shopping, buying antique items from the Haveli, paintings, puppets etc. Most of the Havelis are abandoned, feels sorry to see them in that state, nothing much can be done I suppose.
Started to Bikaner, roads were better. First spot was the Camel Breeding Farm in the city outskirts. There are around 350 camels and of all ages, we saw some just born camels too. Mom and me rode on a Camel and mom screamed so much that the Camel got scared. We stayed at Harasar haveli, this was in the middle of the city. We were on the third floor and was treat to watch the sun set.
The restaurant is on the same floor and you get to see the city from there, plus some great food. In the morning, saw the Junagarh fort. We also visited the Lalgargh Palace, nothing much to see except a museum as most of the palace is converted to a Hotel. After that we spent a lot of time finding the Bikhaji restaurant, finally found it and as usual the food was great.
After that started our ride to Pokhran (yes the same place which became famous after the Nuclear Tests). You can get to see the landscape changing on the way. Arrived at Pokhran fort and we stayed there on the third floor. The room was fabulous. The place has a few rooms and not many visitors, enjoyed the serenity. Took a few pictures and went around the fort. The owner of the fort, Nagendra Singhji personally takes care of the place and he takes good care of his guests too. Food was great, and by now I was used to overeating.
The two doors that you see in the third floor were our rooms for one night :-)
After a nice breakfast consisting of Aloo Parathas, we started for Jaisalmer which was an hours drive from Pokhran. We toured Sona Fort, true to its name it seems to be made of Gold with the yellow Jaisalmer stones.
We were fascinated by some of the most intricately carved pillars of the Jain temples within this fort.
Started towards Sam, place known for its sand dunes. We were to stay for one night in desert camp. There are several of them there and we stayed at the Rajasthan Desert Camp. Place is done up nicely. Went on the camel for around 2 km on to the sand dunes. Arhan loved the ride.
There was folk dance to entertain the campers in the evening.
Next morning we continued exploring Jaisalmer. We visited Patwa Haveli. The intricate carvings all over the outerwalls is just stunning. After spending about couple of hours awing at the Jharokhas, pillars, walls of this haveli we headed towards Jodhpur - The blue city.
Visited Umaid bhawan palace in the night and then headed to Kisan Bhojanalaya for dinner. After finger licking delicious Haldi ki sabzi, Sarson ka saag, Gatte ki Sabzi, Chakki, and lassi, called it a day.
Morning started with visit to museum at Umaid Bhawan palace followed by Jaswant thada, cremation ground for Jodhpur rulers. The lake and garden surrounding the cenotaph along with some soul rendering music played on Ravanahatha adds to the tranquility of the place. We headed to Mehrangarh fort still privately owned by Raja Gaj Singh of Jodhpur, is one of the very well maintained and impressive forts that we visited. Shopping at the Museum shop in the fort completed our tour of Jodhpur.
Our next destination was Jaipur, that we reached late in the night and crashed at hotel Meghniwas. Following day was packed with tour of City palace, Hawa Mahal, Amber fort, Jal mahal followed with lots of shopping. We went back to Amber fort in the evening to watch the sound and light show, that was just perfect to conclude our old year 2010.
Started from Jaipur towards Fatehpur Sikri (UP). Knew that there was the Gujjars agitation, so started early, hoping that we will cross the blockade before they wake up, was not so lucky after all. Had to take a detour and our tight schedule was taking a beating. So how do we make up for the time, we skipped breakfast. We got to see some vast stretches of “Sarson ke kheth” (mustard fields), they look great with bright yellow flowers.
Reached Fatehpur Sikri, the experience is different, there were people everywhere.
Did a quick tour, got to see the Bhuland Darwaza, Dargah, skipped the fort, did not have time as we had to reach the Taj and spend some time there. So what do we do, skip lunch.
Started our journey towards Agra, it was a race against time, arranged for a guide to meet us at the entrance of the city. Rached Agra, again a different experience, how can a city which houses the Taj be so not clean! We were too anxious to see the Taj, the guide said that there will be lesser crowd at the east entrance, so we go there. Guess what, there is a 1 KM long queue to enter, and there is no way we will make it as it was late afternoon already (gates of the Taj close for visitors by 5 pm) and the queue never moved an inch. Luckily there was a separate queue for ladies and wifey, Sindhura and mom stood in that queue and they entered the place within 30 mts, and I was with Arhan in a stationary queue. Went and spoke to the security, luckily at that time Arhan started to cry loudly and the folks in the front of the queue agreed to accommodate me, and in I went. Could not wait to catch a glimpse of the Taj, we rushed in, and there it stood the magnificent Taj and a zillion people around it. Whole world was at the Taj, people everywhere, not an inch of space...phew..(Wonder who leaked the news of my visit)
Decided to act as a commoner, ignored the crowd and watched the changing colors of Taj at the sunset to conclude our near perfect trip.
Wanted to get away from all the hustle bustle of Agra and have dinner at a quiet place, and we get into a traffic jam enroute Delhi. Got to have dinner at 10:30 pm, what a way to start the year, no food the whole day...
Finally, we reached Delhi past 1 am. Our flight was at 6:30 am from T3 ( the nice new Delhi airport terminal), and we had to wake up by 4 am to make it. The iphone alarm bug dint help. Thanks to my wifey again, who happened to wake up at 4:45 am, we just made it! We were back in Bangalore by 9 am. Home sweet home..
To sum it up, the trip was great, relished every minute, people are very friendly, lots to see and shop, food is awesome, highways are well maintained (have to pay toll every now and then), missing Rajasthan. Have not covered the southern parts, planning a separate trip to cover Mount Abu, Dilwara, Udaipur.
